How to install the new Flying Scot boom vang bail

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Parts supplied by Flying Scot, phone 1 800 864 7208 to order part #150410
This is what you get when you order the new boom vang bail from Flying Scot, included are two hammer rivets, the S hook, a twist shackle, and the bail for the boom. The hammer rivets are a wonderful invention that make the job easy, I ordered the rivets with the bail from Flying Scot to be sure I got the correct length. Notice the broken outhaul/vang block track which I was using to attach the boom vang, not a good idea as the vang broke it in two. My 1987 Scot also has a boom vang track on the bottom of the boom, no problems yet but perhaps I should change it to a bail also.
I drilled the rivets from the outhaul fitting enough to get it off and ground the rivets flush with the mast, this will be replaced another day. On this 1965 model the outhaul and boom vang track was one piece, the front part connected the vang, the back part the outhaul. I believe this is no longer used, as the vang can pull the rivets out too easily, especially if you go to the new 12 to 1 vang. Since the bail rivets are on the side of the boom instead of the bottom, they are stronger.

Drill the new 1/4" holes 46 3/4" from the front end of the boom. You may have to enlarge the hole just a tad so they fit the hammer rivets exactly.
Insert the rivet through the new fitting and into the boom. Be sure to hold the fitting firmly against the boom while you hammer the pin of the rivet FLUSH with the top of the rivet. Do NOT drive the pin farther than flush! Repeat on the other side.
I installed a new rope for the lower boom vang attachment, I call it a rope because I prefer triple strand nylon here to give a little stretch and help me not bend the mast when I forget to ease the vang at the windward mark. To cut it the length I wanted I first wrapped two tapes with about 1/2 inch between them to prevent the line from unraveling while I cut it and melted the ends into a bulge barely small enough to fit through the bulkhead hole but bigger than the rope. Then I removed the tape, passed one end through the bulkhead hole and tied an overhand knot so the bulge would prevent the knot from untying. I don't usually use an overhand because of difficulty untying, but the slightly smaller size was nice and this knot rarely needs to be adjusted or untied. I passed the other end through the small pulley of the vang, through the other bulkhead hole, and another overhand. Done. It worked fine, the length was not that critical, as the vang takes up extra length, just close enough was great. This has lasted years, always worked, still like new, and I've never touched it. I like stuff like that.
The new lower attachment line installed with a small block to let the vang move from side to side. A double block for the vang came from my spare parts bin and works fine. Later, when I bought the 1987, I noticed two new holes in the bulkhead for the triple strand. They are further forward and lower down the bulkhead, I think this reduces the increase in vang pressure as the boom swings to one side. They are closer in line with the center of the mast, and of course I use those on the 87. If I ever change that line on the 65, I may drill new holes in this new location, with a few inches longer rope to fit.
I purchased a double pulley block with built in jam cleat I found on the used parts shelf at the Sailboat Shop in Austin. The shackle with a 90 degree twist that came with the kit from Flying Scot would have put this block at the wrong angle so I used a normal shackle. Now the line hangs down in easy reach and the vang is very easy to adjust. I waited until I went for a sail the next day to cut the line to the length I wanted, just to make sure I didn't cut it too short. Flying Scot recommends the S hook be put in from the back instead of as shown to prevent the spinnaker sheet from hanging on it. It works great, I find the 4 to 1 advantage is plenty for me.